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Home » Journal

Five months in Hoi An, Vietnam

Abraham Posted On October 1, 2014
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It is a famous story we have told about twenty times. “We originally planned to stay in Vietnam only 17 days and we ended up staying five  months”.

Hoi An is the main reason for us changing our plans. Those seventeen days were for seeing the South since last time we were in Vietnam in 2011, we saw the North. We said let’s go to Ho Chi Minh for a few days and then make our way from Hue down to Hoi An.

Between me hurting my back and being out for a week and Celeste being sick for a few days, we ended up staying a couple extra weeks before we left for Hue. Hue was nice, we will probably write more about it in the future and include the unforgettable Easy Riders motorcycle ride from Hue to Hoi An.

Arriving in Hoi An

We arrived to Hoi An and booked our first few nights in An Hoi which is a little island you can cross by foot bridge. It was right in the middle of the Old Town and when we looked out of our window we could see the salesman and tourists. We rented bikes and went as far as we could, even though the entire Hoi An is not that big and quite perfect for biking. We found different parts of town that were interesting and knew we wanted to stay in Hoi An after we were supposed to check out of our place.

Foot Bridge Crossing Hoi An
Foot Bridge Crossing Hoi An
Restaurants and Bars of An Hoi
Restaurants and Bars of An Hoi
Hoi An - An Hoi - Old Town
Hoi An – An Hoi – Old Town
Hoi An - An Hoi - Old Town
Hoi An – An Hoi – Old Town
Hoi An - An Hoi - Old Town
Hoi An – An Hoi – Old Town
Hoi An - An Hoi - Old Town
Hoi An – An Hoi – Old Town
HoiAn-183
Hoi An - An Hoi - Old Town
Hoi An – An Hoi – Old Town
Hoi An - An Hoi - Old Town
Hoi An – An Hoi – Old Town
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Hoi An Rice Fields
Hoi An Rice Fields

Moving to Cua Dai

Next we moved to Cua Dai which is one of the two main beaches of Hoi An. We rented bikes again and kept pushing the outskirts. We made it to Cua Dai beach which was considered the more local beach. The day we went was pretty memorable. It was packed with locals with their friends and family either swimming, drinking, playing cards, and picnicking. It was intense because we had never seen this side of Vietnamese people. We have mainly seen them in an urban, work, serious, light. It’s times like this you relate to your unknown fellow humans the most. Seeing them when they are vulnerable and enjoying the same things other humans who they have never met also enjoy in it’s purest form. To top off that day. We witnessed a beautiful sunset while it rained. Something they have seen a 1000 times, but it was the first and still the best raining sunset I have seen.

Sun Rise Hoi An
Sun Rise Hoi An
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Exploring Hoi An
Exploring Hoi An
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Riding Bikes through the Rice Fields
Cua Dai Beach - Hoi An
Cua Dai Beach – Hoi An
Cua Dai Beach - Hoi An
Cua Dai Beach – Hoi An
Cua Dai Beach - Hoi An
Cua Dai Beach – Hoi An

We were really enjoying Hoi An, exploring, learning, navigating between our wants and available options. We stayed with a wonderful family in Cua Dai which invited us over to dinner a couple times. Always means so much when you are made to feel truly a guest in someone’s guest house.

Finding a House

Our time was coming to check out and we were trying to figure out the next steps, especially since Celeste had a big redesign project she was working on for a client. We felt very comfortable in Hoi An and decided to stay a bit longer. Celeste found a rentals website with furnished houses available for short term and presented me with a few options but had her heart set on a specific one. We met with a local rental agent and took us to see a few places. We ended up getting the place we wanted which was between the old town and An Bang beach.  By bike we could get to any part of the city in 15-20 mins. We loved our place. It had a kitchen, washer, patio, and up stairs with a second bedroom and bathroom. We had a kitchen and washer again after four months, we got drinking water delivered to us, and could shop at the market and cook.

Our interesection
Our interesection
Kitchen of our new house
Kitchen of our new house
Living room seating
Living room seating
Our entertainment setup
Our entertainment setup
Sun lit room between kitchen and bedroom
Sun lit room between kitchen and bedroom
The upstairs of our our house
The upstairs of our our house
Motorbike I had rented
Motorbike I had rented
Mrs. Hao
Mrs. Hao
Cows Crossing
Cows Crossing
Sunset in Hoi An
Sunset in Hoi An
Rainy Night in Ang Bang Beach
Rainy Night in Ang Bang Beach
Rainy Night in Ang Bang Beach
Rainy Night in Ang Bang Beach
Rainy Night in Ang Bang Beach
Rainy Night in Ang Bang Beach

We rode bikes as often as we could, and eventually we rented a scooter (or motorbike) and went to the far corners anytime we wanted. Typically the scooter was for going to the market in the mornings and getting eggs, baguettes, and vegetables. When I got home Celeste would make me the best breakfasts and Cafe Sua Da. Other times I would show up with Com Thit Nuong, which is BBQ pork over rice and an egg on top or Banh Mi for the quick fix.

Food in Hoi An

Food is delicious and inexpensive in Hoi An. A few of our favorites were

Cau Lau – Local Hoi An Noodles originally made with water from the historic well

BBQ Pork satay – served with rice paper, vegetables, and sauces.

Banana Flower Salad – Shredded banana flower and vegetables with a lemon dressing.

Bun Bo Hue – Pork Noodle Soup, style originating from Hue but is in most of Vietnam.

Com Ga – Fried Chicken. We found a place and it was so addicting we would go about twice a week despite the lady charging us different prices each time. The chicken was delicious, and freshly made. They would have these jars of pickled shallots and carrots on the table. We would finish ours as well as the table next to ours’.

Bia Hoi – Home made beer. Very cheap. Supposed to be made the day of but most places have it delivered daily. Since it is fresh, it is not very strong and the keg does not last more than a day.

Bahn mi – Some of the best Bahn mi in the world is in Hoi An. Definitely see Bahn Mi Phuong for the tried and true. We found a few gems around the town, but not sure what directions I can offer.

Avocado Shake – Delicious treat any time of the day.

BBQ Pork Satay
BBQ Pork Satay
Delicious Cau Lao and Satay
Delicious Cau Lao and Satay
Original Market - Cau Lao
Original Market – Cau Lao
Fresh beef sliced to order
Fresh beef sliced to order
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
The best Bun Bo Hue in town
Legendary Bahn Mi Phuong
Legendary Bahn Mi Phuong
Kebab Shack
Kebab Shack

Our friends at the Kebab Shack make a really good Kebab sandwich as well as other British and Western foods. They are definitely addicting.

Hoi An Life

We were happy in Hoi An, with our place, the town, and with life. We watched every Vietnam related movie we could find to learn more about these good people. One of the highlights was taking a trip to Cambodia to celebrate Celeste’s Birthday. It was nice to be able to pack light and have a home to come back to. My long time friend Jack was also travelling the world and was able to stay with us for a few days.

Best of times
Best of times
Ducks in the Rice Fields
Ducks in the Rice Fields
Local Man on a Water Buffalo
Local Man on a Water Buffalo
Old Friend
Old Friend
Jack reppin the West Side
Jack reppin the West Side

Our last two months we stayed in a more local neighborhood above a the Kebab shack I mentioned earlier. Tim and Ly An were good hosts and friends. Through them, we met a small community of expats who had knowledge on many things in Hoi An and Vietnamese culture. Our mornings mostly consisted of Kebab sandwiches and Full Englishes with some Cafe Sua Da and Cafe Den Da from next door. We were such fiends that we would get two coffees sometimes. Your jaw felt as if it was going to fly out but there was no better way to start the day.

Our Apartment above Kebab Shack
Our Apartment above Kebab Shack
Ly An from the Kebab Shack
Ly An from the Kebab Shack
Tim from the Kebab Shack
Tim from the Kebab Shack
Views from our place
Views from our place
Views from our place
Views from our place
Views from our place
Views from our place
Dragon Festival Hoi An
Dragon Festival Hoi An

We went on a couple outings with Tim and Ly An including a ceremony to honor her father’s death. It was a beautiful ceremony and we learned about different ways to mourn/celebrate the dead.

Vietnamese Ceremony to Honor the Dead
Vietnamese Ceremony to Honor the Dead
Offerings for the dead
Offerings for the dead
Offerings for the dead
Offerings for the dead
A calf decided to join
A calf decided to join
Honoring the Dead
Honoring the Dead
Burning incense
Burning incense
Cows rome the cemetery
Cows rome the cemetery
Feast for the Deceased
Feast for the Deceased
Family playing around
Family playing around
Amused by their own photos
Amused by their own photos

We also met Ly An’s cousin, Vu who is also a photographer who we rode to Da Nang with into a forest to take photos of rare monkeys. It was amazing, all around. The park, the monkeys and even an 800 year old tree.

Riding through the forest in Danang
Riding through the forest in Da Nang
Celeste with Vu and Muoc spotted a monkey
Celeste with Vu and Muoc spotted a monkey
Eight Hundred year old tree
Eight Hundred year old tree

Hoi An will always be that happy place inside of us we can always revisit. The beach, the house, the food, the people, and the life.

Hoi Animals
Hoi Animals
Mr Style
Mr Style
Lady steering a boat in Hoi An
Lady steering a boat in Hoi An
Old Market Hoi An
Old Market Hoi An
Wood worker
Wood worker
Old Market Hoi An
Old Market Hoi An
Ducks relaxing
Ducks relaxing
Hoi Animals
Hoi Animals
Old Market Hoi An
Old Market Hoi An
Low Feet Style
Low Feet Style
Captain of the Barge
Captain of the Barge
Hoi An People
Hoi An People
Fish Market
Fish Market
Abraham and Celeste
Abraham and Celeste
Morning Walks in Hoi An
Morning Walks in Hoi An
A friendly smile
A friendly smile
Hoi An People
Hoi An People
Afternoon Nap
Afternoon Nap
On to the next
On to the next
Cafe Google
Cafe Google
Naptime
Naptime
Napping in the cyclo
Enjoying our last days
Walking around
Morning Market in Hoi An
Morning Market in Hoi An
Internet Cafe
Internet Cafe
Old Market Hoi An
Hoi Animals
Hoi Animals
Hoi An People
Hoi An People
Old man Basketball
Old man Basketball
Morning Walks in Hoi An Old Town
Morning Walks in Hoi An Old Town
So you're a philosopher
So you’re a philosopher
HoiAn-184
Proud father and Son
Proud father and Son
Hoi An Old Town
Hoi An Old Town
Hoi Animals
Hoi Animals
Hoi Animals
Hoi Animals
Hoi An People
Hoi An People
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